Turkish maille is also known as 3D Byzantine, so a familiarity with Byzantine would be helpful in learning this weave. This is not a beginner's weave.
You need an aspect ratio of 3.9 to 4.1 – any less and you will struggle to link the rings and the final result will be too stiff. The higher the aspect ratio, the looser the weave.
When learning a new weave, it is easier to learn using large cheap jump rings. The instructions show the larger aluminium rings. When you have mastered Turkish maille, use the much smaller anodised aluminium or enamelled copper rings to produce an intricate finer bracelet.
For the learner bracelet, you will need:
129 bright aluminium jump rings, id 5mm, 1.29mm (rd4-50bral) - A
63 black anodised aluminium jump rings, id 5mm, 1.29mm (rd4-50alblk) – B
12mm silver plated lobster clasp
For the smaller bracelet shown above, you will need:
198 silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, id 3mm, 0.81mm (rd15-32alslv) - A
96 black anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, id 3mm, 0.81mm (rd15-32alblk) B
two pairs of smooth faced chain nose or flat nose pliers
domed foam pin case, piece of foam or bead mat
For project supplies, go to
1. Using the aluminium rings, link alternate bright aluminium and black jump rings into a circle. Pin the bright aluminium rings (A) to your foam or your bead mat. Make sure the rings are positioned as in the picture.
2. Open six bright aluminium jump rings (A) and three black aluminium jump rings (B) ready for steps 2-5. Link one ring (A) through two of the black rings from step 1. Repeat twice so that you now have two bright aluminium rings linked through each black ring.
3. Link one bright aluminium ring (A) through the upper part of two of the rings added in step 2. Repeat twice. The rings added are marked with red dots.
4. Fold back the rings just added and pull them up from the centre, as in the picture. You will be adding the next rings at the points where the red dots are.
5. Link one black ring (B) through two bright aluminium rings (A). Repeat twice. Unpin the piece of maille you have made so far. The hardest part is the beginning – you should be able to continue with the maille held between your thumb and forefinger.
6. Steps 6-9 are the same as steps 2-5, except that you are now holding the maille. Open six bright aluminium rings (A) and three black aluminium rings (B) ready for steps 6-9. Link one bright aluminium ring (A) through two of the black rings from step 5. Repeat twice.
7. Link one bright aluminium ring (A) through the upper part of two of the rings (A) added in step 6. Repeat twice. The rings added are the ones marked with a red dot.
8. Fold back the rings added in step 7 and pull them up from the centre. Hold the maille in place with your fingers. You will be adding the next round of rings at the points where the red dots are.
9. Link one black ring (B) through two bright aluminium rings (A). Repeat twice more to complete the round. Repeat steps 6-9 until the bracelet is the correct length finishing with a round of black rings.
10. Link one ring (A) through two black rings (B). Link a second ring (A) through the third black ring and one of the rings already linked. When you add the last ring, place the lobster clasp onto the ring before closing.
11. At the other end of your bracelet, Link one ring (A) through two bright aluminium rings (A). Link a second ring (A) through the third bright aluminium ring and one of the rings already linked. Join the two bright aluminium rings (A) you have just added with one ring (A).
12. Now you have completed the bracelet with the learner rings, you should have a full enough understanding of this weave to try it with the smaller rings. At steps 10 and 11 you will need to add the toggle bar and toggle ring before closing the last rings.
Variation in peridot and dark green enamelled copper. You will need to use id 3.2mm, 0.81mm enamelled copper rings (code beginning rd2-32)