This project shows you how to increase and decrease with European 4-1 and so opens up a whole range of design possibilities.
You can use nearly any ring size, each creating a different result. The higher the aspect ratio is, the looser the weave, the lower the weave the more rigid it will become. Jump rings with an aspect ratio of less than about 3 would not work. You can also use anodised aluminium jump rings, id 3mm, 0.81mm to create the same effect - anodised aluminium is much lighter than enamelled copper.
For one pair of earrings, you will need:
56 dark colour (pink) enamelled copper saw cut jump rings, id 3.2mm, 0.81mm wire (rd2-32cpr-pk) or rose pink anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, id 3mm, 0.81mm (rd15-32alrpk) - A
72 contrast colour (light pink) enamelled copper saw cut jump rings, id 3.2mm, 0.81mm wire (rd2-32cpr-lpk) or ice pink anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, id 3mm, 0.81mm (rd15-32alipk) - B
1 x pair of pink niobium earwires (nb-ewpk)
one eyepin or 5cm piece of wire
two pairs of chain nose or flat nose pliers
For project supplies, go to
TIPS: Increasing: The first and last rings are always woven through one ring.
Decreasing: Every ring must go through two rings.
After step 2, it is easier to turn your work sideways when adding rings.
1. Row 1 & 2: Link the eyepin and two closed jump rings (A) onto one open jump ring (A). Close the jump ring. Place your linked jump rings onto your work surface as shown.
2. Row 3: Link jump ring (B) through the two closed rings from step 1. Add one ring (A) to each end of the row, weaving through one ring only.
Link each jump ring whilst your work is laying flat. Once you have linked a ring, lift the ring with your pliers to close. Lay your work down and pat gently to reposition the rings. If your work does not lie properly, it is probably because a ring is incorrectly linked.
3. Row 4: Starting a new row, add one ring (A) through one edge ring from the previous row. The next ring (B) weaves through two rings. Repeat once with ring (B). Finish with one ring (A) through one edge ring.
4. Row 5: Ring (A) through one edge ring, 3 x ring (B) through two rings, ring (A) through one edge ring.
5. Continue to increase the number of rings in each row in the following way: Row 6: One ring (A), 4 rings (B), one ring (A). Row 7: One ring (A), 5 rings (B), one ring (A). Row 8: One ring (A), 6 rings (B), one ring (A). This row is 8 rings across.
Always remember that the edge rings are ring (A) and they are woven through one ring only. The middle rings are ring (B), which are woven through two rings.
6. You must now decrease the number of rings in each row – each ring must weave through two rings.
Row 9: One ring (A), 5 rings (B), one ring (A).
Row 10: One ring (A), 4 rings (B), one ring (A).
Row 11: One ring (A), 3 rings (B), one ring (A).
Row 12: One ring (A), 2 rings (B), one ring (A).
Row 13: One ring (A), 1 ring (B), one ring (A).
Row 14: Two rings (A).
Row 15: One ring (A). You have now completed your first diamond.
7. Remove the eyepin and attach one earwire.
8. Repeat steps 1-7 to complete the second earring.
Make a matching bracelet with diamonds 5 rings wide.
Use larger jump rings to make diamond earrings 6 rings across. We used lavender enamelled copper jump rings, id 4mm, 0.81mm (you could also use anodised aluminium, id 3.6mm, 0.81mm). When you have decreased your diamond so that it has three rings remaining, join the three rings with one ring and attach your earwire. Dangle a bead from the bottom – these earrings have a 6mm violet Swarovski bicone on a niobium headpin.
Make a larger diamond with enamelled copper rings id 3.2mm, 0.81mm or anodised aluminium id 3mm, 0.81mm that is eight rings across. Add magatama drops to each of the edge rings along the bottom.